Infinite Tanzania PART 1

Oh boy, I knew it would come to this eventually. I would have to share my thoughts and experiences of Tanzania and put into eloquent script all the things I saw, heard, smelled and tasted. I would have to open my mind and heart and pour out all the stories and feelings that I would much rather lock in there forever! Not because they are not worth sharing (they are the only things in the WHOLE WORLD that are worth sharing), and not because I have forgotten, or overlooked, or floated by in a trance and therefore cannot recollect or reproduce them for you to enjoy. None of that. As a matter of fact, my first trip to Africa turned out to be so deeply personal, so unbelievably moving and soulful that it flushes my cheeks and brings butterflies to my stomach to share with you the depthless love that I now hold for my Mother Land. Imagine being blind and deaf for 25 years; never knowing the blue of the sky or sea, never hearing the songs of a rich and proud, cultural legacy, and more importantly, never seeing yourself.

 Imagine that the only definitions you have for your own beauty are those given to you by the hopeless, money-hungry media and by those who have blatantly and secretly tormented you, stolen from you and left you to die.

 Imagine, as a blind, deaf African (only a fraction of what you once were and can be), your definition of yourself is wretched, hungry, poor and incompetent; in need of help and service.  It's on tv, so it must be true.  

And then, on July 23rd 2009, the birthday of Ras Tafari Makonnen you touch down on East African soil and you can see and hear for the first time, after spending 25 years in soundless, darkness. It's majestic; a lush, happy place, home to colorfully adorned women and the smells of cardamom and fennel lingering in the air. You feel foolish and embarrassed by your misguided expectations. 

 Then a light shines on you, illuminating your entire soul, and it's the sun, like you have never seen it before. 

Big, round, orange and HOT, like something that exploded in the sky, a mere mile from where you stand. This particular sun only shines on Africa and you are here, feeling it energize you.

I am writing this to share my Africa with you; my Tanzania. Don't be surprised to know that it is NOTHING like what you have seen or heard on television.

 "[It is] a country whose...children, women and men refuse to die from ignorance, hunger and thirst"(Thomas Sankara) but smile in the face of adversity, are courageous, elegant, kind and BEAUTIFUL.

The first thing I suggest for making this trip, (it helps for any trip actually), is to formulate some kind of tentative itinerary. 

This will keep your trip focused and manageable, after all, there is PLENTY to see in Tanzania, and if you want to get in some city, safari and sea, this will require plenty of travelling.

 Above is the one I drew up, which organized our trip by dates and activities. We spent 10 days in Tanzania altogether with the first 3 days in Dar Es Salaam, the second 3 in Arusha which is the Safari center of the country and the last 4 in Zanzibar, one of the 3 islands that make up the Zanzibar Archipelago (2 nights on the beach, and 2 in the infamous Stone Town.)

DAR ES SALAAM

Meaning "House of Peace" in Arabic, this bustling, fast-paced and dusty city is anything but peaceful. Typical of any large town, it is packed with people, cars, buildings, restaurants and shops. We were constantly on the move in Dar, partly because there is a lot of history and a lot to see, and partly because standing still and looking lost is not the smartest or safest way to handle your business here.

 We stayed at the lovely Harbour View Suites hotel, which over looked the Dar Es Salaam harbor and port and provided some of the most spectacular views of the sunrise in the city. The place was clean and the staff was pleasant. A perfect place to start and end a long day of walking around town. Samora Ave seems to be where the action is, and lucky for us, that is where our hotel was located.

 Everything is for sale on Samora Ave. (Shout out to Alcove Indian Restaurant. May I suggest the chili mushrooms! HEAVEN).

 You can purchase anything from a used cellphone case to a pair of perfectly and locally beaded leather sandals. Women sashay on the avenue, balancing home grown fruits and vegetables on their heads and young men make kissing noises to alert you of their sale of maji (water), loose cigarettes and peanuts. But it is the Kangas that are the true treasure.

 Kanga in swahili refers to the incredible, luxurious and colorful fabrics that African women wear about their heads and bodies. They are woven from sturdy cotton and screen-dyed with the most inspiring patterns. Many of them have quotes written in swahili that run around the hem or waist depending on how you choose to wear it. As with many things in Dar Es Salaam, you bargain the merchant down until the both of you come to an agreeable price. Although this can be fun and interactive, is it really worth it to argue over a couple thousand Tanzanian shillings, which amount to about 1 or 2 USD; money you can surely spare?

 Give him what he asks for, as long as it's within reason, and be comforted that you helped the economy.

We were sure to visit the Karikou market on Saturday morning.

 Barrels of rice, beans and peas were spread out along the sidewalk and alley ways.

 Men and women beckoning you to buy their delectable, fresh vegetables, fruits and meats. "Brother, sister, karibu!" They would say, and hold up some produce for you to inspect. The tomatoes were plump and juicy, the greens: hydrated and firm.

 Layers upon layers of delicious colors! This isn't the Africa I read about! Why is there so much fresh food here? So many delicious choices and so many happy, fed people?? "Oh Africa... if they have lied about you, they have lied about everything!"

These questions played over in my mind as we walked to Nyerere Road in search of the Scandinavia Bus Terminal. It is here that we would purchase tickets for our 9 hour bus ride to Arusha the following day. 

ARUSHA

After an early but slow start, (the bus broke down, and this added another hour or so to our trip), we were finally en route to Arusha from Dar Es Salaam. 

Literally, this trip is by far the most scenic and inspiring 9 hours of my life. 

 As we drove North and further inland, we passed mountains, acres and acres of ruby red earth and acres still of cultivated farmland. 

Children playing, men laughing and women pounding cassava to make dough are some of the sights I captured during this journey. The air was brisk and smelled of damp, sweet, fertile earth. An occasional waft of cinnamon or a slowly simmering stew would find its way into the bus, bringing a smile to everyone's face. Just as I was mentally and emotionally drifting off into those green, rolling African hills, 

and absorbing the smells and the feel of the cool, misty breeze on my cheeks... BAM. The girl in the seat ahead of me, closed...the....window!!!!!

 Certainly she couldn't be serious!

 Being my annoying, gracious self, and not wanting to appear selfish, and inconsiderate of her feelings, I left the window closed. About 4 minutes had passed before we drove by the Nguru mountains. Grabbing my camera, I threw courtesy to the wind- literally - and flung open the giant, heavy window. A mighty gush came flying through, bringing with it the smell of spice and earth that I was silently reveling in. I breathed deep, mesmerized by the beauty. 

Thinking back on this moment, despite it's infinite incredibility, I felt angry and betrayed; like a child who comes face to face with her birth mother after 25 years of not even knowing that she was adopted. I still have no idea what I expected of Africa. Who did I think she would be? I was moved almost to tears as a little boy smiled and waved at the passing bus. I longed to know his name. Dusty and cheerful, he ran back inside his home and just like that, would never be a part of my life. 

Our journey continued. We passed small rivers, small towns, small farms, small markets and small gatherings of people. Then out of nowhere... THE MIGHTY KILIMANJARO with Kibo (the peak) piercing the sky. All I could do was stare at the snowcapped wonder and be thankful for the moment. We were nearing the end of our journey around dusk. Mount Meru was softly wrapped in a blanket of pink and orange, with low-lying, fire-lighted clouds framing its lush, green face. 

Just when my senses were overwhelmed with allure, we arrived at Karama lodge and Spa, which would be our home-base for the next 3 days. (Shout out to Chef Peter Mukusyo, who was so gracious and creative in handling our vegan dietary requests)...